Ua puka mai ka ʻili Vegan, a ua kaulana nā huahana pili holoholona! ʻOiai ua kaulana loa nā ʻeke lima, nā kāmaʻa a me nā mea i hana ʻia i ka ʻili maoli (ʻili holoholona), ʻo ka hana ʻana o kēlā me kēia huahana ʻili maoli ʻo ia ka mea ua pepehi ʻia kahi holoholona. I ka nui aʻe o ka poʻe e kākoʻo nei i ke kumumanaʻo o ka pili holoholona, ua hoʻomaka ka nui o nā brand e aʻo i nā pani no ka ʻili maoli. Ma waho aʻe o ka ʻili faux a mākou i ʻike ai, aia i kēia manawa kahi huaʻōlelo i kapa ʻia ka ʻili vegan. Ua like ka ʻili Vegan me ka ʻiʻo, ʻaʻole ka ʻiʻo maoli. Ua kaulana kēia ʻano ʻili i nā makahiki i hala iho nei. ʻO ka Veganism ka ʻili holoholona. ʻO nā mea hana a me ke kaʻina hana o kēia mau ʻili he 100% manuahi o nā mea holoholona a me nā wāwae holoholona (e like me ka hoʻāʻo holoholona). Hiki ke kapa ʻia kēlā ʻili he ʻili vegan, a kapa pū kekahi poʻe he ʻili mea kanu ʻili vegan. ʻO ka ʻili Vegan kahi ʻano hou o ka ʻili synthetic pili i ka honua. ʻAʻole ʻoi aku ka lōʻihi o ka lawelawe ʻana, akā hiki ke hoʻomalu ʻia kāna kaʻina hana e lilo i mea ʻawaʻawa ʻole a hōʻemi i ka ʻōpala a me ka wai ʻino. ʻAʻole hōʻike wale kēia ʻano ʻili i ka piʻi ʻana o ka ʻike o ka poʻe i ka pale holoholona, akā ke hōʻike pū nei hoʻi ʻo ka hoʻomohala ʻenehana o kēia lā ke hoʻolaha mau nei a kākoʻo i ka hoʻomohala ʻana i kā mākou ʻoihana hana.
ʻIke ʻoe i ka mea i loko o ka ipu ma lalo?
▲Kiʻi mai: Unsplash
ʻAe, he wai ʻāpala ia. No laila, ma hea kahi e hele ai ke koena ma hope o ka ʻoki ʻia ʻana o nā ʻāpala? E hoʻolilo iā ia i ʻōpala kīhini?
ʻAʻole, he mau wahi ʻē aʻe kēia mau koena ʻāpala, hiki ke hoʻololi ʻia i kāmaʻa a me nā ʻeke.
ʻO ka Apple pomace kahi mea "ʻili" i waiho ʻia ma kahi hewa
Hana ʻia nā kāmaʻa a me nā ʻeke i nā ʻili holoholona?
Ua wehe ke kumu!
Nui nā mea kanu i hoʻokumu ʻia no ka hana ʻana i ka ʻili, ka mea i kapa ʻia ʻo Vegan Leather.
ʻO ka ʻili Vegan e pili ana i nā huahana ʻili i 100% manuahi o nā mea holoholona a me nā wāwae holoholona i nā mea hana a me ke kaʻina hana, ʻaʻole e hana i nā hoʻāʻo holoholona.
I ka mākeke o kēia manawa, aia nā huahana ʻili i hana ʻia i nā hua waina, nā pineapples, a me nā halo ...
ʻOi aku ka nui o nā halo, ma waho aʻe o ka ʻai ʻia, ua ulu wikiwiki lākou i nā ʻoihana ʻē aʻe i nā makahiki ʻelua i hala. Ua hoʻolaha nā mea hoʻohana nui e like me lululemon, Hermes a me Adidas i nā huahana "ʻili mushroom" i hana ʻia mai ka "mycelium" o nā halo.
▲Hermes' Mushroom Bag, kiʻi mahalo ʻia e Robb Report
Ma waho aʻe o kēia mau mea kanu, ma ke ʻano he huahana o ka ʻoihana wai apple, "ʻili apple" i hana ʻia mai nā koena apple e like me nā cores a me nā peels i pono ʻole no ka hana ʻana i ka wai ua lilo i "lio ʻeleʻele" i ka ʻili Vegan.
Loaʻa nā huahana ʻili e like me Sylven New York, SAMARA a me Good Guys Don't Wear Leather, i kapa ʻia ʻo "Apple Leather" a i ʻole "AppleSkin".
Hoʻohana mālie lākou i ka ʻili ʻāpala ma ke ʻano he mea nui.
▲ Kiʻi mai: SAMARA
ʻO ka hana ʻana i ka wai ʻāpala ma ka ʻoihana e waiho i kahi pulp e like me ka paʻi (i haku ʻia me nā fiber cellulose) ma hope o ka ʻomi ʻia ʻana o nā ʻāpala.
Hoʻololi kēia mau hōʻailona i nā koena e like me nā cores a me nā peels i hana ʻia i ka wā o ka hana ʻana i ka wai apple mai ʻEulopa (ka hapa nui mai Italia) i pulp, a laila hui pū ʻia me nā solvents organik a me ka polyurethane a hoʻopaʻa ʻia i ka lole e hana ai i nā lole e like me ka ʻili.
▲ Kiʻi mai: Sylven New York
Ma ke ano o ka structurally, "apple leather" ka nui o na waiwai like me ka ili holoholona, aka, o kana hana hana, aole pili me na holoholona, a he mau pono liilii e ae i loaa ole i ka ili laau.
No ka laʻana, he manaʻo maikaʻi loa kona kokoke i ka ʻili maoli.
▲ Kiʻi mai: ʻAʻole ʻaʻahu nā kāne maikaʻi i ka ʻili
Hana ʻo Salima Visram ka mea hoʻokumu ʻo SAMARA me kahi hale hana ma ʻEulopa e hana i ka ʻili ʻāpala no kāna ʻeke ʻeke.
Wahi a Salima, kūpono ka ʻili ʻāpala mānoanoa maoli no ka hana ʻana i nā ʻeke a me nā kāmaʻa.
ʻO ka ʻili mushroom, ka mea i kaulana i nā makahiki i hala iho nei, hiki ke hoʻoponopono i ka maikaʻi o ka huahana i hoʻopau ʻia e like me ke kaumaha a i ʻole ka manaʻo ma ke kāohi ʻana i ke ʻano o ka ulu ʻana o nā halo, a me nā halo, hiki ke hana hou ʻia, he mea maʻalahi ke loaʻa. ma mua o nā huahana apple.
▲ Kiʻi mai: Samara
Eia nō naʻe, he ʻano ʻokoʻa iki ka ʻili mushroom, ʻaʻole makemake nā mea hoʻolālā a pau.
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Salima: "Ua hoʻāʻo mākou i ka ʻili halo, ka ʻili paina a me ka ʻili niu, akā ʻaʻole i loaʻa ka manaʻo a mākou i makemake ai."
Wahi a kekahi poʻe, ʻo ka ʻōpala kahi waiwai i waiho ʻia ma kahi kūpono ʻole.
Ma kēia ʻano, ʻo nā koena ʻāpala i lilo i ʻōpala kīhini he mau mea "ʻili" i waiho ʻia ma kahi kūpono ʻole.
He aha ke ʻano ʻili e pono ai mākou e hoʻohana?
Mai nā koena apple a i nā kāmaʻa a me nā ʻeke, he aha ka ʻili i ʻike i nā makahiki?
E like me kā mākou e ʻike ai, he moʻolelo lōʻihi ka poʻe i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ʻili, a ʻo ka hapa nui o lākou e hoʻohana i ka ʻili holoholona.
Akā me ka holomua o ke kaiāulu a me ka hoʻomohala ʻana o ka moʻomeheu, ka pale ʻana i nā pono holoholona, ka mālama ʻana i ke kaiapuni, ka hoʻomau ... nā kumu like ʻole i alakaʻi i ka nui o nā poʻe e hōʻemi i ka hoʻohana ʻana a i ʻole ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā huahana ʻili holoholona.
▲ Kiʻi mai: Eco Warrior Princess
No laila, ua hoʻomohala ʻia kahi ʻoihana ʻē aʻe - Vegan Leather.
E like me ka mea i ʻōlelo ʻia ma mua, ʻo ka ʻili Vegan he 100% manuahi o nā mea holoholona a me nā wāwae holoholona i kāna mau mea hana a me nā kaʻina hana, ʻaʻole ia e hana i nā hoʻāʻo holoholona.
I ka pōkole, he ʻili holoholona.
▲Kiʻi mai: Green Matters
Eia nō naʻe, ʻaʻole pili ka holoholona i ke ʻano o ke kaiapuni.
Hiki ke noʻonoʻo ʻia nā ʻili kūlohelohe maʻamau e like me PVC a me PU i ka ʻili Vegan ma ke ʻano ākea (ʻaʻohe holoholona i komo i ka hana hana), akā ʻo kā lākou mau mea maka mai ka ʻaila mai, a ʻo ke kaʻina hana e hana pū i nā mea he nui. pōʻino i ke kaiapuni.
▲Kiʻi mai: Senreve
Hiki iā mākou ke pale i ka ʻili holoholona, akā ʻaʻole hiki iā mākou ke hele i kahi ʻē aʻe.
ʻAʻohe ala e launa pū ai me nā holoholona a me ka hoʻokō ʻana i ka makemake o nā kānaka no ka ʻili?
ʻOiaʻiʻo aia kahi ala, ʻo ia ka hana ʻana i ka ʻili mai nā mea kanu i ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka nohona. I kēia manawa, maikaʻi nā hopena.
Akā ʻaʻole maʻalahi ka hānau ʻana o kēlā me kēia mea hou, a pēlā nō hoʻi no ka ʻili mea kanu. He pōʻai wikiwiki ka ulu ʻana a me ka maikaʻi o ka ʻili ʻohu, akā ʻaʻole maikaʻi e like me ka ʻili ʻāpala.
▲Kiʻi mai: MycoWorks
Pehea ka manaʻo maikaʻi o ka ʻili ʻāpala? He mau pomaikai wale no kona? ʻAʻole pono.
He nui nā pilikia o ka ʻili Apple i kona piʻi ʻana
No ka ʻoihana hana wai ʻāpala, he ʻōpala kēia mau koena ʻāpala, a he nui nā kumu waiwai i pau i kēlā me kēia makahiki.
ʻO ka ʻili Apple kekahi mea hoʻohana lua i nā koena ʻāpala no ka hana ʻana i nā pani ʻili bio-based.
Eia nō naʻe, ʻaʻole ia e like me ke ʻano o ke kaiapuni e like me kou manaʻo.
No ka laʻana, e lawe i nā kāmaʻa ʻili ʻili o Sylven New York. Ma waho aʻe o ka ʻili ʻāpala, aia nā linings i hana ʻia mai ka palaoa a me nā huahana mai ke kulina, nā kapuaʻi i hana ʻia mai ka ʻili kulina a me ke kohu, a me nā kaula kāmaʻa pulupulu.
▲Kiʻi mai: Sylven New York
Ma waho a'e o kēia mau mea olaola, loa'a i nā kāma'a Apple Leather he 50% polyurethane (PU), ma hope o nā mea a pau, pono nā kāma'a i ke kāko'o lole e kāko'o i ke kaumaha o ke kino.
ʻO ia hoʻi, i ke kaʻina hana o kēia mau lā, ʻaʻole hiki ke hoʻohana i nā kemika.
▲Kiʻi mai: Sylven New York
Me ke kaʻina hana o kēia manawa, aia wale nō ma kahi o 20-30% o nā mea i loko o nā huahana ʻili Apple he mau hua.
A ʻaʻole ʻike ʻia ka nui o ka pollution i ka wā o ke kaʻina hana.
Aia kekahi paukū ma ka pūnaewele mana o ka Good Guys Don't Wear Leather brand:
Hana ʻia nā mea AppleSkin e ka hana hou ʻana i kēia ʻōpala i hoʻolei ʻia a hoʻololi ʻia i mea hope loa. ʻO ke kaʻina hana pololei he mea huna kālepa, akā ʻike mākou ua "hoʻopiha" maikaʻi ka cellulose i ka nui o nā mea puʻupaʻa e pono ai e hana iā AppleSkin. ʻO ka liʻiliʻi o nā mea puʻupaʻa, ʻo ia ka liʻiliʻi o nā kumuwaiwai kūlohelohe i ʻeli ʻia mai ka honua, nā hoʻokuʻu haʻahaʻa, a me ka hoʻemi haʻahaʻa o ka ikehu ma ke kaulahao hoʻolako.
Hiki ke ʻike ʻia he pilikia hiki ʻole ke pale ʻia ka haumia i ka hana hana.
Eia naʻe, ʻoi aku ka nui o nā mea keakea i ka piʻi ʻana o "Apple Leather".
▲Kiʻi mai: ʻAʻole komo nā kāne maikaʻi i ka ʻili
ʻAʻole hiki ke hoʻokō i nā kauoha nui nā brands i loaʻa nā huahana ʻili apple no ka mea ʻaʻole lawa nā mea maka.
ʻO ka hapa nui o nā hua ʻai i kūʻai ʻia i kēia manawa mai ʻEulopa mai no ka mea hiki i ka ʻōnaehana hana hou i laila ke mālama maikaʻi i ka ʻai ʻana. Eia kekahi, hiki i nā hale hana ke hana i ka nui o ka nui a me ka liʻiliʻi o nā mea pena e koho ai.
Wahi a ka ʻōlelo, "ʻAʻole hiki i ke kuke maikaʻi ke kuke ʻole me ka laiki ʻole." Me ka ʻole o nā mea maka, no hea mai nā ʻeke?
▲Kiʻi mai: Unsplash
Hoʻopili ʻia ka hana ʻana, ʻo ia ka mea maʻamau i nā kumukūʻai kiʻekiʻe.
I kēia manawa, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o nā huahana i hana ʻia mai ka ʻili Apple ma mua o nā huahana ʻili ʻole o Apple.
No ka laʻana, ʻo ke kumu kūʻai o nā ʻeke ʻili SAMARA Apple he 20-30% kiʻekiʻe ma mua o nā huahana ʻili vegan ʻē aʻe (hiki i ke kumu kūʻai aku ke piʻi i ʻelua mau manawa o ka hope).
▲Kiʻi mai: SAMARA
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Ashley Kubley, ka luna o ka Fashion Technology Center ma ke Kulanui o Cincinnati: "He kanaiwakūmāiwa pakeneka o ka ʻili maoli i hana ʻia mai nā huahana o ka ʻoihana meaʻai. kahua e hoʻohui i ke kaʻina hana, a mālama kēia pilina i ka 7.3 miliona tons o ka biowaste mai nā pae ʻāina i kēlā me kēia makahiki."
ʻO kēlā ʻōlelo, inā makemake ʻo Apple e hana i nā huahana ʻili i ka nui, pono e loli ka ʻoihana.
▲Kiʻi mai: SAMARA
Ma ke ʻano he huahana ʻenehana, ʻo Apple Leather kahi hoʻohālikelike kūpono ma waena o ka pilina o ke kaiapuni a me ka aloha holoholona.
Akā ma ke ʻano he mea hou, inā makemake ia e ulu a hoʻomohala, aia kekahi mau pilikia e pono e hoʻoponopono koke ʻia.
ʻOiai ʻaʻole kūpono ʻo Apple Leather i kēia manawa, hōʻike ia i kahi hiki hou: hiki ke hoʻokō ʻia nā huahana ʻili kiʻekiʻe a me ka hoʻomau ʻana o ke kaiapuni i ka manawa like.
Ka manawa hoʻouna: Jun-12-2024